| Woodland Rose Garden Journal
page 2 Journal index |
| 2005 February 6 - Best Performing
Species Roses To Date |
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| The followng is part of a
recent e-mail correspondence with a gardener I'll call
Pauline. Pauline: I will be planting many OGRs plus some species in my own garden this coming spring, and wonder if you'd mind telling me which species roses have worked best for you. I suspect our growing locations are somewhat similar; parts of my property are heavily wooded and I'm including shade-tolerant varieties and those known to be tough growers (winters are fierce on our mountaintop here in Western NC, hence my assumption I'm growing in zone 4B). I think the species will do well placed on the margins of the woods. Kent: These are the species that do best for me: |
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R. multiflora - Is now indigenous to our area, and many other states. Some consider this a weed. I may also. A large plant of this growing in on the fringes of my property brought rose rosette disease into my garden about 3 years ago. So, I typically remove any I find on my property. But, they grow so well and bloom in much shade. This leads me to look to other multiflora hybrids as good candidates for my shadier situations. This is probably why the hybrid musks typically do better in shade than many other roses: they are more multiflora than musk. 'Ghislaine de Feligonde', a multiflora hybrid does very well for me in an area that gets about half day sun, so I have propagated several plants and planted it in a very shady spot this past fall. We shall see how it does. |
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R. roxburghii hirtula - I purchased this rose from Herronswood four years ago and it is one of my favorite species...even though it has yet to bloom. It is entirely hardy, has a marvelous and very attractive form and shape to the entire plant, is perfectly healthy, has wonderful fern type foliage, and exfoliating shaggy bark on the larger and older canes. This seven foot tall shrub, when it blooms and produces prickly hips, will be the star of my shady garden. I have R. roxburghii plena from Roses Unlimited, and it is a great disappointment. After seven years, it has struggled to thrive, and has only grown to a height of two feet. It has bloomed and re-bloomed, sparingly however. It may be a hybrid with china blood in it, which could explain its tenderness in my climate. I moved it a year ago in hopes of rejuvenation. Forest Farm is where I purchased R. roxgburghii normalis two years ago, and it shows great promise of doing as well as R. roxburghii hirtula. I don't think there is much difference between the two, perhaps I will detect it as both mature and bloom. |
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R. x micrugosa - This hybrid between R. rugosa and R. roxburghii does well in shade for me. The bloom is very rugosa like, and the hips are prickly like R. roxburghii. My plant is from Peter Beales in England. Quite healthy. The shape of the plant is more rugosa than roxburghii, and so are the leaves. |
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R. nitida - I grew this from seeds sent me about 4 years ago. It is planted in a very shady part of the garden, next to a large wild cherry tree, but it is growing, putting out many suckers and is starting to form a small thicket of canes about two to three feet tall. Very healthy foliage, a little mildew at the end of the season, but it blooms and sets hips even though in shade. It would likely bloom more in more sun. The foliage turns red in the fall. |
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R. sericea pteracantha - I grew this from seed collected at the San Jose Heritage Rose garden about three years ago. So far, it likes it's shady situations quite well and is forming a three to four foot tall shrub with delicate, ferny leaves that are very healthy. The real attraction are the 3/8" to 1/2" wide, thin, translucent thorns. Many books encourage gardeners to plant this in a setting where the sun can backlight the thorns: I have and it is wonderful. Has not bloomed yet. |
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R. hugonis - From Forest Farm, one of the earliest roses to bloom in my garden, starting about the 2nd or 3rd week of April. Before they open, the swollen, just-about-to-open buds have a bit of a striped appearance to them. When they open they cover the plant with buttery yellow flowers, well scented. Very healthy, ferny foliage. |
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R. spinosissima - From Forest Farm, another very healthy shrub that gets no disease whatever in my garden. The flowers are creamy white with prominent stamens. Black hips follow. I have a small collection of Burnet or Scotch roses, which are selected varieties of R. spinossima. These are planted in much sun and are some of the healthiest plants I grow. When in bloom, the shrubs are covered and the scent is sweet and strong. I think most of these would do very well in a shadier location, blooming less however. All these spinosissimas start blooming around the last week of April or the first week of May. There bloom period lasts three to four weeks. |
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R. virginiana - Both this rose and R. carolina came from Forest Farm, and are quite similar. Shiny, dark green leaves are entirely black spot and mildew free. Both produce large pink blooms with prominent stamens, and when in bloom they cover the plant, exude strong scent which attracts many bees. Both produce hips, the R. virginiana hips are a bit more bristley. Both readily send out suckers, although R. virginiana produces more, faster, and farther from the main plant. If I did not routinely pull them from the plant, R. virginiana would in several seasons, take over the border where it is planted. There are several forms of these roses, and also wonder if FF got the identity correct. Very vigorous shrubs up to seven feet tall, R. carolina a bit taller. Photo is R. carolina. |
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R. carolina - see above comments R. setigiera - This species is the second most common rose found in southwest Ohio. Although nothing near as prevalent as R. multiflora. I have two forms of this very vigorous plant: with (R. setigera from Forest Farm) and without (R. setigera serena from Vintage Gardens) thorns. The long, pointed leaves remind me of blackberry. This rose is quite vigorous, throwing out very long, (8 to 10 feet) canes which arch over and touch the ground. And where they touch the ground they root, quickly forming a dense thicket. My thornless form is not quite as vigourous. I have seen huge thickets growing on steep road banks. It flowers very late, the first part of July. It does very well in the shade, and in the fall its leaves turn a beautiful orange-yellow. |
| 2003 April 15 - A Conversation About
Winter Hardiness and Shade Tolerance |
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| The followng is part of a
recent e-mail correspondence with a gardener I'll refer to as
Alice. Alice: I am particularly interested because I have a somewhat parallel situation - the south side of my 1/2 acre is bounded by a forest of 80 ft Black Walnuts; there are also various large maples, black locusts, dogwoods, redbuds and a liriodendron which was very beautiful and symmetrical at 20 ft high but is now getting unnerving.....None of these are allowed to be cut or otherwise discouraged, in deference to other family members. (I have a BS in physics too.) Now, I have only been paying attention to growing roses for a few years, so my experience is limited. I was very encouraged by your praise of the Buck hybrids - I'm trying some out this summer, it was a bit of a gamble and no-one at the GCRA seemed to know much about them - but from what you say, I'm glad I'm doing this. I agree the hybrid musks are really super in shade, in this area, and very healthy with no intervention at all. I'm concerned about the Austins' behavior in heat -I agree that they are very, very beautiful roses at their best, but I wish I knew which of the apricot blends were going to bleach out to a khaki color in summer . Abraham Darby did well for me, but Perdita turned near-white.... and then they develop so fast in the summer heat that you get much smaller flowers and lower petal counts. Kent: My Buck roses are far hardier than my English roses, yet few have the look of the OGR damasks, gallicas, and centifolias that David Austin work so diligently to create. To date, my hardiest English rose is 'Constance Spry', which is no surprise as it retains its winter vigor at the expense of no repeat bloom. This winter's single digit temps combined with last summer drought took its toll on a number of my roses. The once blooming OGRs barely noticed the cold and suffered little if no dieback. Mme. Isaac Pereire took a big hit, but another bourbon Souv. du President Lincoln did quite well. Most of my species roses did well. Except for the few I dug up late fall, around October, and transplanted into large 7 to 10 gallon black plastic pots I buried in the ground. I did this with about 45 of my roses growing in the woods to discourage the moles and tree roots. During the drought last summer I dragged 200' of garden hose trying to keep the roses alive: the ones that were the thirstiest were the ones in the woods. Those trees....they must have their water! One consequence of watering the roses was one I had not expected: the moles were attracted to the moist soil and worms that gathered there. Most roses in the woods had mole tunnels right up to the roots. Of course since that was where I watered and watered and watered. Watching the water drain immediately down the mole tunnels. So I stomped the tunnels down and swore to fight back. Thus the idea of burying large pots in the ground. I am starting to side with a few of the authors on my site (http://w3.goodnews.net/~kkrugh/books/ars-annual/1932/whitman_cross.htm and http://w3.goodnews.net/~kkrugh/books/ars-annual/1976/searing_baldwin.htm) who contend that one of the major reasons roses do not do well in part shade--most likely the shade of nearby trees--is the dry and nutrient poor soil as a result of tree roots. Hence another motive for growing roses in pots buried in the ground...time will tell. Alice: Anyway, the subject of this e-mail - I've read many times that "rose must have 6 hours full sun" or "shade tolerant, and must have 4 hours full sun at an absolute minimum". I suspect it is more complicated than that. I have seen roses flourishing in suburban English gardens, under low-hanging trees with brick walls on three sides - the tree's canopy was perhaps three feet above the rose. I doubt it got more than an hour's sun a day, assuming the sun even shone, which is doubtful in England.These were ordinary hybrid teas receiving no special care and they looked super healthy. Kent: I wonder if the roses you saw in the shade had been there long. Or perhaps only a season or two. Last we toured London and one of the stops on the way to the Cotswalds was a manor/palace with many acres of gardens. One area had a number of roses growing under large trees, and these roses looked like they had been there a while. Most were in bloom, but the bloom count, size, and plant vigor looked a bit under-achieved. They were large flowering floribundas and shrub roses. Still wonderful to admire. Alice: You would also think that an hour of sun in Ohio would count for more (higher intensity) than an hour of sun in more northerly latitudes - unless CO2 availability becomes the constraining factor. Perhaps the length of the growing season is a factor too - so that the milder English winters allow more growing-hours integrated across a year than the Ohio climate allows. Alternatively, perhaps it's a bad thing for the temperatures to be high, perhaps the rose-metabolism gets cranked up and the demand for direct sunlight to manufacture sugars goes up accordingly - and if the leaves aren't in direct sunlight, a deficit is created..... Kent: I continue to read and research what others have said about roses and shade. Graham Thomas suggests R. elegantula 'Persetosa', so I imported one from Peter Beales a year and a half ago...hoping for the 1st bloom this spring. In "Roses of Great Britain and Ireland" they discuss R. arvensis as the most shade tolerant of the species roses growing there. There are a few hybrids that may also be quite shade tolerant, and they are large sprawling ramblers and climbers. Roy Hennessey in his book suggests that since Tea roses are direct descendents of R. gigantea which grows in the understory and jungles of asia and India, they do better in partial shade, so I moved my potted Teas into the woods. I am trying to grow a number of musk rose hybrids and species (single and double) and am hopeful that these moderately repeat bloomers will do well in part shade. Last fall R. moschata rebloomed for me and its powerful, sweet scent filled the nearby woods and caught me by surprise! I also believe R. multiflora is quite shade tolerant. If you look at the parentage of hybrid musks, there is far more multiflora blood in them than moschata. 'Ghislaine de Feligonde', a multiflora hybrid, is one of my favorite roses, the one I grow gets about half day sun and does great. I really must root some cuttings and plant one in the woods. If you would like to visit my garden, you are welcome to. The first rose to bloom is R. hugonis in about a week from now. By the 3 or 4th week of May many more will be in bloom. |
| 2002 November 24 - The Last Rose of Fall |
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| 'Spencer' was the rose I was hoping for this late fall. Holding on to memories earlier in the season, if I could just have one more rose to relish and photograph before the killing freeze arrives. We have had temperatures in the upper twenties on several nights this fall, and most reasonable roses are shutting down till next spring. But high atop the roses planted in my pool garden, waving like a banner at the tip of the highest cane, was this defiant marvel of a bloom on the hybrid perpetual 'Spencer'. I noticed the fat buds on this rose a couple weeks ago and had little hope they would open after the low temperatures. But they did. In fact there were a half dozen buds that have opened. It is interesting to note that the literature on 'Spencer', as sparse as it is, complains of balling in wet weather. This fall has been wet, but apparently the tendancy to ball is offset by the cold temperatures. Or maybe not. The bud on this rose is quite an impressive and large ball with obvious reflexed petals. I should have cut this bud to bring inside in hopes of seeing it open before my eyes. | |
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| It is quite interesting to note the lineage and history of 'Spencer' since it is a sport or "mutation" of another hybrid perpetual. According to Modern Roses 8, in fact, 'Spencer' is a sport of a sport of a sport. For more about this see 'Spencer' |
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| 2002 July 21 - Tall Hemerocallis and Rare Rose
Bloom |
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| I have always had tremendous
respect for any plant that will grow taller than me in one season. How amazing
when, from bare dirt in the spring, the Joe-Pye Weed (Eupatorium
fistulosum) thrusts forth and in three months time stands almost eight feet
tall! The flowering tobacco Nicotiana sylvestris is a high-reaching
annual and has grown up to eighty inches in the more fertile areas of my
borders. And now I have a new sky-reaching perennial to admire this summer: the
lofty Hemerocallis altissima. Until today, I have always had to kneel down or
bend my back far towards the ground to examine and smell daylilies. But now I
simply walk up to H. altissima, and without the slightest hint of
bowing, sniff away in the throat of its bloom. A very nice, sweet fragrance
exudes hence and is also attractive to wasps and bees. If you look again at the
ruby-throated, deep yellow bloom in the photograph, you will notice a blurry,
black wasp hovering near the stamens. |
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The buds of some roses are so tightly packed with petals that in damp wet weather, they swell in anticipated opening, but turn brown and refuse to open. My Banshee rose tends to do that, as well as the bourbon 'Mme. Issac Pereire' and the tea rose 'Mme. Berkeley' . But both of these I have seen in full bloom in drier weather. The tea rose 'Perle des Jardins' introduced by Levet in France in 1874, did not open for me last season, and no bloom opened this very rainy spring. I grow this tea rose in a large pot which is placed on our concrete cistern. The combination of full day sun, high heat radiated from the concrete, and an extended dry spell in which it has not rained the past three weeks, has apparently been the right set of conditions conducive to coax a number blooms to fully open. |
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| As I passed by 'Perle des Jardins' today, the buff-yellow, tea scented blooms inspired me to run the house for my camera. I received this rose in a trade a couple years back, and I am a bit suspicious as to it's true identity after reading what Samuel Parsons writes in his 1883 book Parsons on the Rose: "Large to very large, excellent form, with stiff stems; deep canary-yellow; exquisite tea-fragrance; a free grower and bloomer; the foliage is very glaucous, and the five to seven leaflets are strongly serrated. It is largely forced for the New York market, and it is also excellent in the open ground." The leaves of my plant are serrated only slightly and the bloom is not the shade of canary yellow, if the color of the "wild canaries" or Goldfinches at my bird feeder are any indication. I welcome help in correctly naming this rose, which I will continue to call 'Perle des Jardins' [PERL des Zhar-Deen] until corrected. Thank God for the mid-summer blooming plants in my garden. |
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| 2001
November 18 - Dew on 'Tamora' and 'Queen Nefertiti' |
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The Leonid Meteor shower was supposed to have been spectacular this morning. A once in a lifetime show in the Eastern sky peaking at 5am. Hundreds of meteors would be visible in just one hour's time. But, alas, a heavy fog settled in, and the sky was completely obscured. The morning mist covered everything, including the last precious rose blooms of the season. A few minutes before 9:30am, I grabbed my camera and tripod and took several dozen shots of two English roses: 'Queen Nefertiti' and 'Tamora'. After church the sky had cleared and the sun was bright. At 2:00pm I went back to the roses and took a few more photos. The difference in 'Tamora' was striking, in just 4.5 hours the flower had opened and was spectacular. The difference in 'Queen Nefertiti' was barely noticeable. |
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